Simplicity 2981 again!

Proper post to follow - but I thought I’d show you The Dress - sewn yesterday!

Not bad, hey?  The cotton was jsut a DREAM to work with - I will finish the Dress from Polyester Hell, but not just yet.

Do you like my hat?

I love hats!

My hat - made last night!

I was inspired to try the zipper roses by Outsapop Trashion - a Finnish girl who makes gorgeous stuff from zippers.  I bought the shell (?base? the sinamay straw shape thingummy) at Spotlight; covered it with a double layer of black silk organza, and then used separating jacket zippers to make the roses.  A few ribbon leaves and fripperies, some black veiling - ta da!!

Karen, Caity, and Sue at the lunch

And now I think I’ll just go have a little nap - the wine was lovely but now I’m REALLY TIRED!

Simplicity 2981 again

I am three-quarters of the way through the next version of The Dress.  This time in black polyester fabric I bought for $5 a metre.

Now, sewing buddies - SPOT THE PROBLEM IN THAT SENTENCE.

Woven polyester fabric.  Very PRETTY woven polyester fabric, black with little white spots. At a price I couldn’t resist.

Now, what are the three words we need to remember about polyester fabric, if I should EVER EVER EVER attempt to make anything else from this  hellish material?

POLYESTER DOESN’T EASE.

(Also, it frays if you so much as look at it wrong. Into teeny weeny very pretty thread snarls that look just like guinea feathers, except are nowhere near as useful.)

(OMG! Just found a shop I could spend most of a lotto win at - Millinery Suppliers!  WOOOOOOT! *wanders off singing “heaven… I’m in heaven…*)

AHEM!  Back to the business at hand:  I bought the fabric from HELL. Straight from Stan’s loom , I tell ya!

Which is why, at 7 pm on Sunday night, I’m just starting to cut out version THREE, in cotton (oh cotton, how I love you!).  Remember I want to wear this on TUESDAY. And I have a hat to trim , too. Last time it took about 2 hours to cut (but that was horrible slippery fabric - oh yeah, I forgot to mention - polyester’s SLIPPERY! and I had to mark every piece carefully with right and wrong side, because there was a subtle but noticeable difference…)

Right. Back to it!  Just promise me, dear readers, PROMISE ME, that if I so much as LOOK at el cheapo polyester woven fabric again, you will take me by the hand and repeat those three words:  Polyester. Doesn’t. EASE!!

Burda July 2008

Get over there before November 5 and answer her question, ok!

I sewed from Simplicity 2981, which was released some time ago as a Khaliah Ali  Plus size pattern (18W to 24W, and 26W to 32W). I noticed that a smaller  version (6-14  and 14-22) of the exact same dress was put out under the Threads Magazine Collection label as Simplicity 3877 a while back.

I made the shorter length with collar and short sleeves (view B or view D, depending on the pattern you’re using.)  The instructions do warn that you must decide on your finished length before you cut the fabric -I shortened the skirt length by 2″. There is no provision for above waist adjustment on the pattern (but that shouldn’t deter you - get a copy of Fit For Real People and go for it!) I’m long waisted so I lengthened the top by 1″ - in retrospect, I could have even gone 2″. (This might sound odd - why did I shorten AND lengthen? Well, because I needed a flattering skirt length and for the waist to actually reach my waist!)

Can I just say that the pattern instructions SUCK?  I mean, really suck.  They were confusing and the illustrations made things even more muddled. Even though I’d read through the pattern, it took me a while to work out when to attach the second tie of the sash. The jumping backwards and forward in the instructions really threw me, too.

The zipper goes in almost LAST, which is not at all helpful - it makes getting a nice finish even more difficult. I was also undecided up to the last moment about whether to use an ordinary zipper, hand picked (not machine sewn) or an invisible zipper.  I knew an ordinary machine applied zipper was not what I wanted, even though it’s in a side seam and unlikely to be visible when the dress is worn.  After reading Summerset’s blog on her latest dress, I went with hand picked - it’s amazingly quick and strong. (Mine is NOT as nice as hers - she’s one of my sewing heroes,  I aspire to her skills!)

I think the collar is ok - the spread works on this style of dress.  It’s applied directly, no collar stand - which makes it easier to sew, but not as crisp, in my opinion.

I’m very, very proud of myself about the skirt - 4 front pieces, 4  back pieces, and 8 godets - all of which went together smoothly first time with no ripping and restitching thanks to the godet instructions in Sandra Betzina’s “Power Sewing.” Yay for skill building successes!

I let the dress hang for DAYS to let the bias drop (and ok, because I was procrastinating!) and when Sue helped me pin the hem, we were surprised by how much some sections dropped - and how little others did.  Fortunately I knew I was using more of the same fabric made into bias binding for a bound hem - so I could get away with having a few sections that were quite a lot shorter.  And with 160″ or so to sew around the hem, I had to accept that some compromises were necessary if I wanted to wear it THIS YEAR!

In this hem detail photo you can also see just how cute the all-over print of sewing things is!

The neckline was rather *ahem* LOWER than I had anticipated - perhaps next time I need to stay the neckline? (I don’t think this was caused by my lengthening the bodice - it looks low on the pattern cover, too.) But the crossover point got a wee press-stud inside, so I won’t flash bra at anyone.

HOWEVER - I will probably make this dress again - cos it’s TWIRLY!

And I grabbed some $5 per metre/115cm wide all polyester (not too bad to the hand, though, and totally non-crushable) in black with white dots when Sue, Vicki and I stopped at Fabric Barn on our way home from Brisbane the other day.  I’m glad I did the first one in cotton though - I know some of the traps to watch out for in the second iteration.

Not least of which is MARK EVERYTHING. A LOT!  The chalk I used seemed to disappear just when I needed it most - it’s back to good old-fashioned tailors tacks for me. I have shamelessly snagged this illustration from Vintage Sewing Info, who very kindly provide their info under Creative Commons:

Mark perforations with tailor’s tacks.

The very best way to mark perforations is by using tailor’s tacks since you can then mark them through two pieces of material at once. A very good plan is to mark all small perforations with one color thread and all large perforations with another color.

Tailor’s tacks are thread marks placed in the material, made through the perforations in the tissue paper pattern.

This is the way to make tailor’s tacks.

Use a double thread preferably without a knot. Take a stitch or two stitches one over the other through each perforation and down through both pieces of material if the material is double. Where there is a row of perforations close together like those at the shoulder seam or the underarm seam, take a row of stitches through each perforation and leave a loop between each perforation. (Ill. 25.) Cut the thread half way between the perforations and take the pattern off.

Now, to separate the two pieces of material, pull them slightly apart and snip through each tailor’s tack between the two pieces of material. A little whisker of basting thread will be left in each piece indicating where each perforation comes in the pattern.”

There, wasn’t that useful?!

I’m off for a little bite of dinner, and then to work on the petticoat…

*sigh* just pretend this is me having fun, ok?  I’ll be over here in the corner chewing painkillers and whimpering…

New Look 3735: Short sleeved T Shirt

Please excuse the awful photo - Mr Beloved is having a nana nap after getting quite stressed out by noise.  This was done with the camera self timer!

Pattern Description: Lovely wearable collection for knit fabrics - a 3/4 sleeve top, and cap sleeved top, cardigan with belt, skirt, and pants.

New Look 6735

Pattern Sizing: 10-22 in the one envelope.  I made a straight 22 with no alterations at all - not even my usual D/DD Full Bust Alterations!

New Look 6735

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

YES! Other reviewers have liked the fit and those curves in the illustration on the envelope are really there - WOOHOOO!! (I’ve been caught before by over-optimistic illustrators, so I was pleasantly surprised that the promised shaping was delivered.)  And I bought this pattern for $5 when it was on sale, so I reckon I’ve already got my moneys worth our of this one!

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, but… for my first run through I followed them exactly - and I sure won’t next time. I do not understand why pattern companies insist on inserting only-very-slightly-eased sleeves in the round, when sewing them in flat is so much easier.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Quick, fits me straight out of the envelope! The scoop neckline shaping is super flattering, the sleeves look like they’ll be too short but they really work, and the centre back seam really improves the fit. Best of all is the gentle gathering of the front sides at the bustline - not enough to look like gathers, just enough to make a beautiful fit.

Fabric Used:
ARRGGGH! The cheapest, awfullest knit you ever did see - only $1 per metre at a Spodshite clearance and now I know why! It stretched out of shape and didn’t bounce back; it was super-soft and so was tricky to sew, and I don’t expect it to last more than two washes! This was only a wearable(?) muslin though, so I’m not worried.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

None this time BUT: next time I will:

• stabilise the neckline before binding it
• stabilise the hem and sleeve hems with fusible tape before I hem them
• use the overlocker (serger) for most of the construction
• shape the bottom seam into a gentle curve at front and back, so I can wear the shirt out over my waistband.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I’ve got fabric in the washing machine right now to sew into two more tonight… I LOVE this top! I’d certainly recommend it to others, especially beginners or those (like me!) lacking confidence in sewing
knits. Just remember to put the sleeves in flat (before you sew the side seams) and I reckon you can make this in no time.

Conclusion:

A beautifully fitted quick and easy t-shirt that will become a TNT (Tried and True) pattern for me.

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And in other news today: went back to the gastroenterologist  -  keep taking the drugs for reflux, lose more weight, yada yada.

Next in the sewing pile - a pirate shirt for the TeaBot 5000™.  Years and years ago - maybe SEVENTEEN years ago, in fact ! - he asked me to make him a shirt. Better late than never - the fabric is almost dry on the washing line: black with a print of grey pirate skull and crossbones (sideways in this image):

Complete with late afternoon silhouette

About to become this shirt (Butterick 4486)

Ahoy there mateys, it's a PIRATE SHIRT!

unless, of course, I decide to cut out those other two new t-shirts first….

First thing: I’m not a warm undertone at all - I’m COOL? (Yeah, you always knew I was cool, eh?!)  In fact, I’m not an Autumn at all - I’m a WINTER!!  Look, here I am in pretty pinks - looking HEALTHY!

Pink lips, pink blush, turquoise(!) eyeliner

And look how far I’ve come: this photo was one I posted in May this year: (Admittedly, a less flattering shot, with too much flash, but still…)

May 2, 2008

I’m bloody AMAZED! So you’ll be seeing me in more of these colours:

Winter colours

(Someone who happens to be one of my very dearest friends and who IS an Autumn is going to get some fabric, LOL! but not that Japanese piece, I’m planning on cutting into that TONIGHT!)

Sue and I both DESPERATELY want to go see Kerryn and get our colours and image style done - I think that it would best the absolute BEST treat once I reach my goal weight,  don’t you?

After the whole skincare and makeup stuff was finished, we went for a coffee and then a little shopping - until all of a sudden we realised it was quarter to FIVE! (our appointment was for 12:30!)  We both tried on a new perfume (which I am totally in love with, the mandarin and pepper notes are just gorgeous) and went to the discount cosmetics shop for quick drying nail polish (bare toes, need polish!).

And we did a lot of sneak shopping - I wish I’d though to whip out my camera phone for some details: tops with masses of pintucks; a shirt with a lovely wide collar shaped by an inverted pleat; covered buttons and beads embellishing another pricey jacket; colour combinations to reproduce.  All things that we could add to our sewing…

I had the nicest day!  And now I’m feeling much more confident about going for  new colours - I just want to get sewing! And now I know what colour make-up to buy,I’m saving up and veeeeerrrry gradually getting myself new things.  WOOOOOOOO!  Look out world, Caity is BACK!

The t-shirt in this has good reviews over on Pattern Review - but I SUCK at knits!  Wish me luck…

McCalls 5430

Pattern Description: Skirts A, B, C have waistband with self-ties and inside buttonholes; skirt A has front pleats creating a cascade; skirt B has optional trim; skirt C has self-faced pockets; length is 2″ below mid-knee.
Pattern Sizing: 6-20.  I made a size 20.

I tissue fitted the pattern and thought I would have enough overlap to allow for my swelly belly - NOPE!! Close, but I don’t know if I can wear it in public.  (I think I might have forgotten to pleat out the pleats.  Truly, I am such a NONG sometimes!)

Wrap skirt

What do you think - can I go out in this or should I leave it in the wardrobe until my belly goes down?

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes!  Of course, the pattern illustration girl is unrealistically tall and thin, IMHO….

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.  The only tricky bit is the waistband and attached ties - but just read the instructions through carefully and you won’t have any problems.

What did you particularly like  or dislike about the pattern?
Like: It was quite simple to construct.
Dislike: Unless it’s an hour on some planet with a MUCH longer day than Earth’s, there is NO WAY this is a one hour project!  I’m sure I spent at least that long just pressing during construction.

I am, however, now QUITE motivated to learn how to use a narrow hemmer foot properly - because doing the whole “ease stitch, press up, then pin and stitch” on that much hemline, as per the instructions, is just silly.  Next time I might just use the serger for a rolled hem -there’s a LOT of hem!

Fabric Used: Quilting cotton from my stash. (Robert Kaufman Fusion Roses in red from Hancock’s of Paducah.)  I probably should have thought more about the wrong side of the fabric showing in the cascade - but I can live with it.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: None! This is straight out of the envelope.  I *should* have altered it to accommodate my larger than normal belly, but I didn’t.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Already got the next one cut out - this time view C with pockets and top-stitching.

Conclusion: Don’t go into this expecting to make a skirt in 1 hour - there’s just NO WAY! But it is a simple and wearable skirt that will be fabulous for summer.

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BTW - my hair is even shorter now!  Mr Beloved thinks it’s a little too severe this short. I kinda like it.  And did you see how Constance posed just like in my avatar?!

Oh, and I got my new glasses today - they fit better than the old ones, and are slightly stronger.  Purple frames again! Also, the lenses aren’t scratched - amazing what a difference that makes.  I try to be careful with them but ya gotta LIVE, eh?